On a street full of bustling restaurants like Piccolo Angelo, Mole, Corsino, and Fatty Crab, Bistro De La Gare hardly looks inviting. I’ve never passed the brightly lit restaurant without noticing the lack of patrons, and I’ve never come across a review of the place, good or bad. But places like these serve a very good purpose in New York, especially in the West Village: the “grandma’s-in-town” restaurant pick. Sometimes, you just need a place that’s low key, readily available, bright, and calm. How many places in the village really have all those qualities at all hours in the night? Maybe two (the other one I’m thinking of is Bakehouse, which I love).
But the atmosphere is awkward at Bistro De La Gare, and the food is just a few steps behind Great. After being seated by our overzealous waiter, I couldn’t block out the smooth jazz elevator music that made the whole place, which otherwise is very clean and polished, seem unrefined and tacky. The bright lighting was hard to ignore as well, though I think this is a draw for the older crowd that frequents this place.
I was pleasantly surprised with the soft focaccia bread, but soon after disappointed when my grandma, sister, and I waited 15 minutes too long for our simple appetizers. I had the roasted vegetable salad, but between that and my sister’s cold mushroom crostini and my grandmother’s odd-tasting prosciutto wrapped pear and goat cheese, I was finding trouble being impressed. The roasted vegetable salad looked dull and off-color and tasted bland, and the grayish puree of mushroom on the crostini was unsightly. Still, we managed to eat it all as a result of our hunger.
My seared salmon , served hot and perfectly medium-rare, was a step above the appetizers, but I was turned off by the thick layer of creme fraiche dripping down its sides. My grandmother’s chicken liver pappardelle, of all things, was actually delicious, hot, and earthy, and she happened to love it. So, I think we’ve found the true value behind Bistro De La Gare – it’s a simple spot with a robust French-American menu, low volumen levels, and bright lighting – the perfect place for bringing the ones you love over the age of 60 when conversation and connecting, not food, is the primary interest (blasphemy!).
Grade: B-
Location: 626 Hudson St., nr. Jane St
Website: www.bistrodelagarenyc.com




































































