Union Square Cafe

I’ve been to Union Square Cafe a few times, and have never been wowed by the food, which disappoints me for a variety of reasons. For one, foodies rave about this place. Secondly, the service is impeccable – waitstaff is friendly and efficient, which would be a perfect match for incredible food. Lastly, after reading his autobiography, I came to respect and admire Danny Meyer both as a chef and entrepreneur, so I really want to be in love with his food (fortunately I swoon over Shake Shack). Sadly, after this weekend’s visit with my parents, my perception of his first NY restaurant didn’t change much. It’s not that the food isn’t good; it’s generally tasty, well seasoned and simply prepared. It’s just that it doesn’t stand out or impress. I have trouble remembering what I ate during each visit, which enough of an indicator that it probably wasn’t worth remembering. That said, Union Square Cafe does serve a very specific purpose incredibly well, more so than any other restaurant in downtown New York: it has a calming, sophisticated, unpretentious ambiance that is perfectly fitting for family or a group including a multiple generations. It’s a crowd pleaser – young people love it for the perfect cocktails and well rounded food options, mature adults appreciate it for the tolerable noise volume level, good service, and un-intimidating, comprehensible menu. Another plus for groups: they have large round tables, a rarity in the cramped spaces of most NYC restaurants.

The standout of the meal I shared with my extended family last Saturday was the berkshire pork lasagna with ricotta and English Pesto pea sauce that my grandmother ordered – though rich and flavorful, it was surprisingly light and delicate. The restaurant also offers the option of ordering a half portion of all of its pastas, so she was able to order just enough to satisfy her hunger. My mother’s giannone chicken, served atop a parmigiano bread pudding and grilled maitake mushrooms deserves praise as well. The chicken was perfectly crisp, juicy, tender and subtly salty, and the bread budding tasted as decadent as and similar to a fancy macaroni and cheese. However, it must be noted that my sister ordered the same dish, and found a few pieces that were on the verge of raw…definitely not cool for chicken, and definitely not acceptable at a long-standing, revered restaurant like Union Square Cafe.

After tasting what looked best on the table, I finally focused on my own dish: seabass served with broccoli raab and morel mushrooms. It was no doubt delicious, but not a stand out among other fish dishes I’ve tasted elsewhere.
Dessert fortunately pleased me, as always. The flourless chocolate cake was dense, chocolatey, and rich, and was served with a salted caramel sauce that brought a simple dish to a whole new level. The waitress also brought out a complimentary cookie plate, so on the dessert front, I was totally satisfied.

My parents absolutely loved Union Square Cafe. I enjoyed it as well. I always have an overall pleasant experience at Union Square Cafe, but as I said before, it’s lack of wow-ing food erases it from my brain as potential options for my friends and me. However, it’s the perfect place for out of town visitors, or for a manageable and relaxed dining experience amidst the hustle and bustle that is New York City, and I’m sure I’ll visit again in the future.

Grade: B
Address: 21 East 16th Street between 5th Ave and Broadway
Website: www.unionsquarecafe.com