Last night I finally had a chance to try the food at Smith and Mills, an intimate yet eclectic garage turned cocktail bar on a bustling corner in Tribeca. The spot is large enough for 8 tables and a bar just a few stools wide, but the coziness and white cushioned booths are what makes the place so charming. The fashionable hipster staff is quite friendly, too – in a rare turn of events in New York city, they actually allowed our party of two to sit at an outside table for four.
Along with a glass of prosecco, Sara and I shared salmon tartare, burrata, and squash blossom salad. The menu includes a small sampling of cheeses and glamorized bar food, but the options for healthy food are limited. Though we had asked for light dressing based on Sara’s last impression of the salad, an oily vinaigrette overwhelmed the fine ribbons of squash, and we could hardly dent the pile. I expected the salmon to be served nude, but it was also covered in a thick dressing, and the large capers were jarring. The saving grace was the burrata, though it bordered on regular fresh mozzarella considering its lack of creaminess.
salmon tartare
With its unique atmosphere and specialty cocktails, I wouldn’t rule out Smith and Mills in the future. I just won’t return hungry.
Grade: C+
Location: 71 North Moore Street between Greenwich and Hudson
Website: http://www.smithandmills.com
