Category Archives: Californian Cuisine

October 5, 2012 · 4:22 am

ABC Kitchen

I’ve been to the holy ABC Kitchen a few times but every New Yorker knows that it’s next to impossible to get a reservation at a decent hour, or essentially anything after 5:30pm. I don’t generally mind an early bird special but given my work schedule, like most people I simply can’t make this happen. Well, last Monday, I was ecstatic when I found out that my date scored an 8pm reservation. After a year since my last visit with my friend Sonia, I couldn’t wait to try all of the new fresh things on this brilliant, gorgeously designed menu.

Half of ABC Kitchen’s appeal is the feeling I get when I enter, which is the aggregate effect of the restaurant’s every intricate detail. The delicate white china, the white lacquered tables, the graceful font on the menus, the dim lighting and votive candles, the background music, the wide open dining room, and the efficient but unobtrusive service collectively create an atmosphere that you don’t want to leave. It’s the perfect mix of casual California and sceney New York. But the scene is replicated no where else…just a little more refined than Barbuto, a little more casual than Mas Farmhouse…and it hits just the right note for me when I want to have a memorable meal out any day of the week.

The other half of the draw is of course, the insane offering of local, organic food (and drink -. No need for lengthy descriptions – you’re served exactly what the few words on the menu say you’ll be served. Who knew that something so straight forward as heirloom tomato toast could be as sensuous and flavorful as it is here? Thinly sliced bright red tomato, salt, pepper, and olive oil on a perfectly toasted rustic bread happened to be my heaven that night. Just as delicious but a step up on uniqueness was the delicata squash with maple syrup and grated goat cheese, which was shaped and lusciously fried like a crispy creme donut. Like the fried bananas my mom loves at Filipino restaurants, it was crispy on the outside and soft and sweet on the inside, and made complete by the dusted salty parmesan. The ricotta cavatelli came with an overload of pan seared shrimp that was absolutely perfect, soft, delicate, and easy to chew (sorry but just admit that shrimp is painful to chew sometimes), and the pork sausage on the fennel sausage pizza made every bite taste sinfully fatty and earthy. Every single dish did the job it set out to do – highlight each of its awesome, local components. The only disappointment was the boring shredded kale salad that I simply couldn’t bother eating because of all of the better options distracting me. 

heirloom tomato toast (photo from NY Post)

crispy squash

kale salad

scallop ceviche

I love dessert here. It took me everything to bypass the caramel ice cream sundae with popcorn and go for the cookie plate with chocolate-covered marshmallow cookies, but a side of caramel ice cream did the trick. Hard to be impressed with a plate of tiny cookies. The concord grape tart is something I never would have ordered myself but was actually interesting and delicious.

After four years of blogging, I’m starting to crack the recipe for my all time favorite restaurants. It must be casual but tasteful in setting. It must create the feeling of coziness even if it’s not cozy in space terms. It has to feel intimate. The menu is heavy on vegetables, seafood and sharable plates. It generally has a flatbread or a pizza. The cocktails are awesome. ABC Kitchen fulfills all of these requirements – I just wish I could go without fear of an hour long wait!

Grade: A
Location: 35 east 18th street (between broadway & park avenue)
Website 

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August 18, 2012 · 2:14 pm

Featured City Post: Bar Agricole in San Francisco

With my travel sked. in the next few weeks, my featured city posts will soon have a different meaning – New York city will need to be my “tourist destination.” Tears. But for now, I shall talk about SF as if I am a foreigner until my bouncing around lifestyle really sinks in.

My local (and childhood) girlfriend Gillian would never classify herself as a “foodie.” Despite crossing town for Gordo’s burritos, she seems repulsed by the foodie label. But every now and then she’ll get hooked on a place – so hooked that she visits week after week until the bartenders wink at her as she walks in and the host waves like Gillian’s the mayor of SF. She’ll eat every dish on the menu and email me with passionate encouragement to try it out. Finally, we decided to try her current obsession together – Bar Agricole – and I was totally impressed with our  fantabulous meal.

Gillie in front

bartender

happy with my medicine

I died the second I got out of the car (valet thankfully). The place is gorgeous. It’s a gem in a horrible neighborhood containing Slim’s and Costco. Among the sea of drab buildings, Bar Agricole shines with a beautiful charcoal gray exterior, sleek wood, high ceilings, clean lines, and modern elegant light fixtures. You feel the dedication to consistent design when you walk in here, and the essence remains in every sip of a drink and bite of food you take. The menu is a sturdy white booklet that details in succinct lines just the most important elements of each dish, which are made up of 3-4 key local ingredients. Feeling compelled to celebrate the end of the week and a relative reunion, we went to town on the ordering. I chugged an amazing fruit cup cocktail with gin and ginger, and recited the list to our waiter: speckled romaine salad with breakfast radishes and soft boiled egg, raw albacore tuna with cucumber, avocado, and beets, chopped liver on toast, spaghetti with tuna confit, capers, tomato, black olives, and parsley, and roasted duck breast and leg (Sonia next time) with squash blossoms and white corn.

delish Fruit Cup

romaine salad

tuna salad

Gillie with liver

duck breast and leg

tuna pasta

Every dish that came out was better than the last. The liver on toast, which we ordered only to taste, was devoured in seconds. The romaine salad had just the right cheese and acid to make the salad feel light and interesting at the same time. The spaghetti was my favorite – salty, earthy, and hearty with a thick slab of delicately cooked tuna. We were seriously in heaven as we trekked through each dish, and just when I thought I couldn’t handle anymore, we dove right into a lemon ricotta tart with lavender meringue and a tiny white chocolate cremeux with almond crumble and grilled peaches. We told the waiter it was his responsibility to take it away after we had a few bites, but of course we guarded those plates like they were our own children until we pretty much ate every last drop.

last of the Gillie photoshoot

Bar Agricole reminds me of the value prop of SF restaurants. Yes New York has a plethora of wonderful restaurants, but no where can you find such high quality fresh food in a beautiful setting at these prices. I would say the food and setting of Bar Agricole is along the same lines as ABC Kitchen, but no layman in New York city could dream of getting a reservation at a decent time at Jean George’s hot spot. San Francisco is a city of the people for the people – no need to call 30 days in advance for this place, which is just as awesome.

Next on my list – State Bird Provisions - a restaurant where you can hand pick your dishes as they stroll by in dim sum style carts – and this year’s best new restaurant according to Bon Appetit. Until next time!

Grade: A+
Location: 355 11th Street
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January 31, 2012 · 3:12 am

Barmarche

Barmarche, nolita

I get the most satisfaction discovering places that not only have awesome food and ambience, but are also fairly easy to book for last minute dinner plans. This is hard to come by in New York city. Barmarche arrived as a miracle for my friend Ashley’s birthday last weekend, and I’ve since been a huge advocate for this sleeper. Not only did they accommodate 12 of us at the height of Saturday night mealtime, they seated us at a well thought-out square table as opposed to a long, awkward rectangle so commonly found in restaurants trying to conserve space. Our group, which was a diverse mix of people, could therefore communicate easily with multiple sides of the table, and we were all set up to share delicious food.  The servers, though incredibly busy, were timely with our orders and constantly checking in to take drink requests.

Our party shared many tasty appetizers: popcorn shrimp, guacamole, bruschetta, and my favorite, almond stuffed dates with crispy bacon and blue cheese. The mix of sweet and salty and crispy and soft was so perfect that we had to request another two orders to sustain our unstoppable craving.

caramelized bacon wrapped dates

crispy popcorn shrimp

While we overloaded on appetizers, we still had room for the overwhelming main course options, all reasonably priced. Barmarche is known for its “taquitos”, which are essentially tacos on slightly smaller tortillas. The fried bass taquitos were a vibrant, fresh twist on heavy Mexican food, and the shrimp risotto was creamy, hot, and filling. My branzino was incredibly crispy, and the perfectly light, pre-night out meal to pair with my spicy margherita.

bass taquitos

perfectly cooked branzino

truffled shrimp risotto

Barmarche is the perfect prequel for a night on the town. Conveniently located in the center of Soho, the Lower East Side and Nolita, it is positioned closely to a wide array of bars, and with its wide range of international food and cocktails, it’s a fit for all sorts of crowds. I wouldn’t say the food is breath-taking, but it’s thorough, creative, and well-rounded. Highly recommended for group dinners (especially for a younger, yet sophisticated crowd) – in fact, I hope to have my birthday there in May!

Grade: A-

Location: 14 Spring Street @ Elizabeth

Website: http://www.barmarche.com

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September 17, 2011 · 5:25 pm

Landmarc in Tribeca

When Landmarc restaurant comes to mind, I think of two things: clients and parents. With a straightforward and sophisticated salad-pasta-meat-fish menu, round tables, fairly low noise level and residential location, it makes the perfect setting for a formal occasion with adults (including myself). Sara and I decided it would be a great place to try for her mom’s visit this week.

Be sure to bring your iPhone flashlight application – without this, I’m not sure we would have been able to read the menu in the darkness of the restaurant. With the variety of interesting appetizers, our table selected a few to share. Though not as thin and crispy as I had expected, the crispy prosciutto and Fontina Flatbread was my favorite. I was unimpressed by the bland smoked mozzarella and ricotta fritters, which for $13 only came with a three tiny fried zucchini spears and three small rounds of fried cheese.  The tuna carpaccio, on the other hand, came just as described with a refreshing black olive salad and tuna sliced so thin it was almost invisible.

flatbread

fritters

Tuna

I was very pleased with the pan seared salmon, which came with buttery corn and a healthy dollop of earthy pesto. I rarely am served a rare salmon when I request it, but this came out perfectly pink and tender with a layer of seared crisp skin. There are a ton of salads to choose from for those looking for something lighter, and I loved the cold chopped salad that came with celery, cucumber, and my favorite – hearts of palm. Most intimidatingly heavy menu items can be ordered in half portions here, which I love, considering I’m always afraid to commit to one main dish!

hearty chopped salad

delicious salmon

When it comes to dessert I am most critical, but the platter of mini tiramisu, chocolate mousse, creme brulee, a blueberry crumble, and a chocolate eclair was pretty much divine. For someone as indecisive as when making food choices, mini of everything is a no-brainer. And I usually hate lemon desserts, but I couldn’t get my hands off of this subtly sweet lemon tart with freshly whipped meringue.

platter of minis

My judgement of Landmarc remains. It is a solid, well rounded, and reliable restaurant that provides an ideal experience for family outings or a crowd with diverse preferences. Don’t expect to be blown away by any unique executions, but be confident that you’ll leave with a satisfying meal.

Grade: A-

Location: 179 West Broadway btwn Leonard and Worth Streets

Website: http://www.landmarc-restaurant.com

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February 23, 2011 · 3:38 am

Colicchio & Sons: The Tap Room

Colicchio & Sons

After a weekend of excessive consumption, I was tasked with finding a spot to meet a friend for drinks after work tonight. For the first time in a long while, I had no desire to put effort into the search, so I picked the closest place possible: Colicchio & Sons on 10th Avenue in the Meatpacking. This is the type of place that I otherwise wouldn’t consider if it weren’t so conveniently located. Reviews have been mediocre, it’s on a nondescript, desolate street, and wines by the glass hover around $15. But after tonight’s snack and drinks, I’ll definitely keep it in my consideration set for future non committal meet ups.

inside Tap Room

The Tap Room, which is apparently the more affordable, casual portion of the finer Colicchio & Sons establishment, takes reservations but also welcomes walk-ins. At around 6pm, tables of two were only half full. We decided to take a seat at the bar, which is beautiful and fancy in its own right; if this is labeled as the restaurant’s more casual side-kick, I can only imagine what the expansiveness of the main dining room. The bartender was perfectly friendly and attentive, happily provided us tastes of wine, offered bread, and indulged our foodie questions with illustrative answers.

The menu has a solid list of food ranging from salad, raw fish, and soup to pasta, pizza, and roasted chicken. Considering pizza is my weakness, we chose the Taleggio, Sopressata, ‘Shrooms & Soffritto Pizza and the cavatelli with tomatos and brocollini. Though I absolutely love pasta, I wouldn’t have put it at the top of my list to order, but this cavatelli delicious in its simplicity. It’s rare that a pasta dish impresses me because of the pasta itself as opposed to the sauce, but the cavatelli was buttery and smooth with the perfect density to contrast the soft roasted tomato sauce.

bowl of cavatelli

The best part of the pizza was the richly flavorful crust – the intensity of the olive oil really stood out in each bite – but I could have survived with less grease on the base of the plate. When I need to aggressively wipe my mouth to feel clean, it’s not a good sign. I appreciated the generous amount of wild mushrooms and crispiness of the salumi, however.

pizza with shrooms and taleggio

Overall, I left content with my experience at the Tap Room because it totally fulfilled my needs for the occasion: convenient, classy, spacious enough to converse without headache, and conducive to sharing food and a few drinks. It fits the bill for client entertaining or sophisticated conversation. Still, I wouldn’t return with an expectation of trying the most inventive food and feeling totally comfortable belting out in laughter. For that type of experience, I’ll steer clear of 10th Avenue!

Grade: B

Location: 85 10th Avenue @ 15th Street

Website: www.colicchioandsons.com

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February 13, 2011 · 4:02 am

SF – Cafe Des Amis

I flew into San Francisco last night to spend a few days relaxing before a work week in the San Bruno office, and thanks to my lovely friend Sarah, I had an early morning brunch at Cafe Des Amis to look forward to. With the sun shining, the dark interior of the restaurant wouldn’t have been my preferred choice of ambience, but our full-view, private cove booth was a valid consolation.

After ordering our mimosas (and for some of us, specialty cocktails), a busboy came by with a basket of warm, sugary muffins, and even after we finished a round of those, he happily returned with basket of brown french bread. Definitely was off to a good start.

mini muffin basket

The large menu included a lot of simple, classically French brunch options, but I decided to go out on a whim and order the dungeonness crab benedict. The eggs were perfectly poached and came on buttered, toasted brioche topped with warmed chunks of fresh crab. The elements were all in order to be a delicious combination, but the distinctly seafood-y flavor of the uni (sea urchin) hiding between the bread and the eggs overwhelmed the subtlety of the crab. Fortunately, the crispy fingerling potatoes in the buttery hollandaise did a great time occupying my time.

Crab Benedict

The side salad also underwhelmed me due to excess – though attempting to be true to its French roots in simplicity, it was overdressed, resulting in a pile of wilted greens. Fortunately, we had enough specialty cocktails served in 1930s champagne glasses to pass around to help us mask the disappointments.

Since I was born, the corner of Union and Buchanan has turned over at least 5 restaurants, and I’m not convinced that Cafe Des Amis will stand the test of time. The restaurant does the job of providing classic French bistro food with a modern flair, especially for large parties in need of a sophisticated setting. There are big tables, plenty of booth space, and a private room on the second level (in which we witnessed a 6 year old’s birthday party taking place). But the food isn’t incredible, and I wouldn’t recommend it for anyone looking for a unique San Francisco dining experience – for us New Yorkers, we might as save the trip across the country and eat at Pastis.

brunch crew

Grade: B

Location: 2000 Union St. @ Buchanan St

Website: http://www.cafedesamissf.com

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April 15, 2010 · 11:57 pm

Union Square Cafe

I’ve been to Union Square Cafe a few times, and have never been wowed by the food, which disappoints me for a variety of reasons. For one, foodies rave about this place. Secondly, the service is impeccable – waitstaff is friendly and efficient, which would be a perfect match for incredible food. Lastly, after reading his autobiography, I came to respect and admire Danny Meyer both as a chef and entrepreneur, so I really want to be in love with his food (fortunately I swoon over Shake Shack). Sadly, after this weekend’s visit with my parents, my perception of his first NY restaurant didn’t change much. It’s not that the food isn’t good; it’s generally tasty, well seasoned and simply prepared. It’s just that it doesn’t stand out or impress. I have trouble remembering what I ate during each visit, which enough of an indicator that it probably wasn’t worth remembering. That said, Union Square Cafe does serve a very specific purpose incredibly well, more so than any other restaurant in downtown New York: it has a calming, sophisticated, unpretentious ambiance that is perfectly fitting for family or a group including a multiple generations. It’s a crowd pleaser – young people love it for the perfect cocktails and well rounded food options, mature adults appreciate it for the tolerable noise volume level, good service, and un-intimidating, comprehensible menu. Another plus for groups: they have large round tables, a rarity in the cramped spaces of most NYC restaurants.

The standout of the meal I shared with my extended family last Saturday was the berkshire pork lasagna with ricotta and English Pesto pea sauce that my grandmother ordered – though rich and flavorful, it was surprisingly light and delicate. The restaurant also offers the option of ordering a half portion of all of its pastas, so she was able to order just enough to satisfy her hunger. My mother’s giannone chicken, served atop a parmigiano bread pudding and grilled maitake mushrooms deserves praise as well. The chicken was perfectly crisp, juicy, tender and subtly salty, and the bread budding tasted as decadent as and similar to a fancy macaroni and cheese. However, it must be noted that my sister ordered the same dish, and found a few pieces that were on the verge of raw…definitely not cool for chicken, and definitely not acceptable at a long-standing, revered restaurant like Union Square Cafe.

After tasting what looked best on the table, I finally focused on my own dish: seabass served with broccoli raab and morel mushrooms. It was no doubt delicious, but not a stand out among other fish dishes I’ve tasted elsewhere.
Dessert fortunately pleased me, as always. The flourless chocolate cake was dense, chocolatey, and rich, and was served with a salted caramel sauce that brought a simple dish to a whole new level. The waitress also brought out a complimentary cookie plate, so on the dessert front, I was totally satisfied.

My parents absolutely loved Union Square Cafe. I enjoyed it as well. I always have an overall pleasant experience at Union Square Cafe, but as I said before, it’s lack of wow-ing food erases it from my brain as potential options for my friends and me. However, it’s the perfect place for out of town visitors, or for a manageable and relaxed dining experience amidst the hustle and bustle that is New York City, and I’m sure I’ll visit again in the future.

Grade: B
Address: 21 East 16th Street between 5th Ave and Broadway
Website: http://www.unionsquarecafe.com

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March 5, 2010 · 9:49 pm

Freeman’s: gorgeous setting and consummate ambiance

I’ve only heard great things about Freeman’s, and after my meal there yesterday, I can finally see why. Ambiance is just second to food quality in my list of crucial restaurant features, and Freeman’s fits the build of my opinion of ambiance perfection. Tucked away at the end of a cobblestone alley, identifiable by only a string of soft white lights and a square-windowed storefront (San Franciscans, think Notte), the restaurant is a little gem in a somewhat no-man’s-land between Bowery and Christie.
Its interior is even more gorgeous. Walls are lined with unique antique-framed photos and a sporadic placement of taxidermy (odd but adds to the rustic feel) – and though there’s not much room between tables, there is ample hang out space for those waiting for a table or lingering for a drink: two bars in fact!
Note that while its somewhat hidden location adds to its mystique, it also requires you to come fully prepared with explicit directions – despite a Google Maps image on my phone screen, my taxi driver and I circled the block 3 times before succumbing to asking a fellow New Yorker for help. Fortunately, the food and the experience made it worth the trouble.
Freeman’s doesn’t generally take reservations for small parties, but my friend and Freeman’s employee Janet was kind enough to set aside a table for me and my friend Lauren, which was fortunate considering the growing crowd around 7pm. While deciding on our menu choices, I sipped on one of the great selections of white wines by the glass, and Lauren had one of their inventive cocktails – conveniently organized by type on the menu (dark and stormy, light and crisp, etc). We were told that the menu had recently changed, so most of the staff admitted they lacked honest recommendations, so Lauren and I just went for what sounded best. We started with their famous artichoke dip, which was sinfully cheesy and creamy in the center and perfectly crusty on top, and served warm with thick slices of toasted baguette. NOT for the lactose intolerant (too bad I am), but delicious nonetheless.

For our mains, we shared the half roasted chicken served with grilled romaine and homemade ranch,
and the pan seared fluke with air popped something and fried rapini.

Can’t remember what the fish was laying on, but it was something light and airy – like a denser popcorn. Both dishes were well priced, perfectly portioned, non-complex, and delicious. The food is not the type that makes you go home feeling heavy – which I loved.

For dessert, Lauren and I shared the chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream (and were VERY tempted to get the sticky toffee pudding but resisted). Although the ice cream was almost entirely melted, the chocolate fudge sauce and old fashioned style of the dark chocolate cake won back our praise.
Overall, Freeman’s is a casual, cozy, and quaint find with tons of atmosphere, personality, inventive cocktails, and affordable, straight forward yet delicious food. Great for a fun group, a catch up with a friend, or a romantic, care-free date. Its versatility is makes it a standout – it really has the potential to please anyone from a high class snob to a lower east side hipster. Nice work Freeman’s, and thanks again for the reso Cuisson!!

Website: http://www.freemansrestaurant.com

Location: Freeman’s Alley in Lower East Side

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June 22, 2009 · 2:43 am

Cookshop NYC: Up in the running as my favorite NYC restaurant

I went to Cookshop 2-3 months back, but it has stuck in my mind as one of my favorite places in New York since then. My friend Janet knows the General Manager of the restaurant, so we both dined together and got a boat load of free delicious wine and little food tasters thoughout the meal. While it may have been the special treatment that lured me into being an avid Cookshop fan, the fact that I thoroughly enjoyed every bite of every dish I consumed is a very telling sign that Cookshop is, VIP treatment or not, a sincerely great find.

cookshop.jpg
To start, the restaurant is very California-esque with high ceilings allowing a warm, open air, un-claustrophobic space. The restaurant spans half of a block between 19th and 20th street, and large windows spanning the walls make the place appear even more spacious than it is. Such a great find amongst the delicious yet exceedingly cramped joints in NY. Despite the large establishment feel, though, you’ll find a menu filled with refined yet homey, filling food made with local and organic ingredients at great prices.
To start, I had a deliciously salty proschutto and egg on a piece of grilled bread with some watercress to lighten it up. The egg was cooked perfectly and poured over the bread when punctured to add a creaminess that partnered with the tangy, salty pork to start a party in my mouth. Crusty, crunchy break added the perfect texture to round out the dish. The next dish I tried was almost sinful – a thick, spicy crab bisque – creamy and just chunky enough to convince me that there was in fact fresh crab in the bisque. And to top off the deliciousness, there was a lightly fried softshell crab that stuck out of the bowl – not sure if you’re supposed to pick this crunch, bisque-soaked creature up to eat, but I sure did. And I have no regrets.
For my main course I went for the sea scallops. Generally, I find sea scallops tough to ruin unless they’re sandy or not fresh. These, however, weren’t just good. They were stellar – Maine Day boat scallops with creamed English peas, sugar snap peas, and morel mushrooms. The scallops were huge, and an overly generous portion of about 6-7 surrounding a large plate with flavorful sauces and veggies. Janet ordered wisely as well by ordering their signature dish – Vermont Suckling Pig “porchetta” with green garlic potato puree, pickled onions, mushrooms and asparagus. Literally, the crispiest pork skin I have EVER tasted. Justin, the GM told us how it was made, and if I remember correctly they put the pork in the oven first to render the fat and flash fry the outside to make the skin as crispy as a pork rind. So so flavorful and so so good – and they truly succeeded in making a rich dish taste light.
For dessert, I was literally awed by the Cookshop Candy Bars, which are described as Devil’s food cake, gianduja crunch, praline ganache, frozen peanut nougat and chocolate shell. The saltiness of the nougat complimented the sweet chocolate cake and praline chocolate sauce perfect – truly bringing out the flavors and making this dessert so much more than just “sweet.” It really brought that meal up that extra mile to make me leave the restaurant thinking “I GOT TO GO BACK THERE!”
Please take my advice and give Cookshop a try – an all-types-of crowd pleaser, a beautiful space, wonderful wonderful service, and tons of local, organic foods (have you SEEN Food Inc??).
Address: 156 Tenth Avenue, New York, NY 10011

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