Category Archives: Romantic Date

November 30, 2011 · 3:53 am

Blossom

I’m far from being a proponent of veganism, but that doesn’t mean I haven’t experienced amazing animal product-free meals. Consequently, I’ve wanted to try Blossom, New York’s most well-known vegan restaurant, since I saw pictures of its dishes on Yelp two years ago. Considering my friends Mer and Kilo just finished up their health cleanses, we decided to continue the momentum and give the healthy dairy-free restaurant a try. I was surprised by the ambience when I arrived – instead of the hippie decor I expected, the place was dark, classy, and intimate, just like any romantic restaurant in New York should be. But the disparities became apparent once I noticed the lack of complimentary bread. Last I checked, most bread is vegan, so there’s really no excuse for not serving pre-dinner snacks. And when the waiter described the “braised seitan special,” I couldn’t help but chuckle. It really takes a lot of work to try to make a braised artificial meat sound delicious.

porcini cigars

I went for the stuff that I would have found at a normal restaurant – I can’t be bothered with seitan and tofu. To start, we shared the porcini cigars, hand rolled phyllo dough filled with porcini mushrooms and served on top of a creamy cashew pesto sauce. This was my favorite dish by far. For my main, I ordered the Blossom Greens that were tossed in a delicious gingery dressing, as well as the Black Eyed Pea Cake recommended by our waiter. The cake was a disappointment – it was over-salted, and I was disgusted the second I saw the massive lump of the mayo-like substance covering the entire thing. I think without the overwhelming, jiggly sauce, and a little bit less salt, the cake would actually be quite good.

Blossom Greens

black eyed pea cake

I also tried Mer’s dish, the lemon-dusted tofu with coconut rice. The rice was fine, but the tofu was almost inedible. The aromatics were so overpowering that I felt like I was putting a bar of soap in my mouth.

Despite the various disappointments, I know Blossom has potential. And if I were a long-time vegan, this food would taste like it was coming straight from the heavens. But as a cheese and meat lover, I can confidently say that the salad was truly delicious, and the food is daring, inventive, and beautifully plated. Blossom definitely brings a food category with limited room for creativity to the next level, but the next time around, I’ll be weary of the overpowering seasoning that unfortunately masked the true essence of many dishes. And I’ll definitely try dessert, which is what they’re really known for.

Grade: C+

Location: 187 9th Avenue @ 22nd Street

Website: http://www.blossomnyc.com

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August 20, 2011 · 12:35 pm

EN Japanese Brasserie

I was shocked with stage fright when my friend Thais suggested Japanese for dinner. I couldn’t remember the last time that I enjoyed a Japanese meal in New York, especially in the West Village. But after thorough online investigation, it suddenly occurred to me that I had yet to visit the mysterious, grandiose, shrine-like restaurant on Hudson and Leroy, EN Japanese Brasserie. Their reviews confirm that it won’t necessarily appeal to those seeking out Rainbow and Philadelphia-rolls – instead, inventive yet inherently Japanese items like freshly made tofu, “devil’s tongue,” chicken sausages and house-made ginger ale can be found on the neatly organized and surprisingly manageable two page menu.  They may not offer your favorite fried sushi rolls, but there’s no way you’ll leave feeling cheated out of a solid Japanese experience. And if it’s good enough for Woody Harrelson, whom we saw hanging with his eclectic crew, it must be good enough for the rest of us.

We started off with an incredible cocktail called the Ginger with homemade ginger ale, rice shochu shiro, lime juice, and soda – incredibly light, subtly flavored with the spicy ginger, and served in a black ceramic cup.

Ginger

And though I would have been happy eating anything here, we finally made a decision on a wide assortment of cold and hot specialties, which got progressively better as they came out. The crab and miso soup came with the shells of a baby crab which gave the typically simple soup a deep, soothing flavor. Even the house salad, served with a simple soy milk dressing and a thin layer of tofu skin was addicting, but the “O-Banzai,” a selection of assorted Kyoto-style dishes, were the show stoppers – Fried eggplant soaked in dashi, royal fern sprouts with fried tofu, and asparagus and bamboo shoots soaked in sesame dressing.

crab miso soup

house salad

O-Banzai

The sashimi was the freshest that I’ve had in New York and as good as the highly acclaimed sushi that I ate in Sao Paolo, with a hamachi so soft it almost melted on my tongue. For our main course, we shared the cold soba noodles served with a hot pork flavored broth, the garlic fried rice that came rightfully recommended by our waiter, and the unimaginably buttery miso marinated black cod. Despite the incredible amount of food, at the end of the meal I felt totally zen – not stuffed, just perfectly satisfied with all of the fresh, cleanly prepared food we just consumed.

black cod

cold soba noodles

amazing fried rice

I’m always one to complain about dessert in Japanese restaurants, but EN Japanese Brasserie has some of the best ice cream I’ve tasted. The Black Sesame and the Green Tea are a must-have – house made and as creamy and wholesome as my favorite Van Leeuwan ice cream.

black sesame ice cream

The only disappointment throughout the night was the flow of service. While our waitress was incredibly sweet and accommodating, (offering Shout wipes when my cocktail dripped on my jacket), we waited 30 minutes for our food. And once we had our soup, we waited for our salad. Once we finished our salad, we had the next course. It was definitely a step by step process that I suspect was simply a result of a busy, under-staffed night. But if patience isn’t your forte and you don’t appreciate long dinners, I’d suggest ordering in.

That said, the food blocks out all service related complaints from my memory, and I can’t wait to come back. This no-doubt has been added to my list of favorites.

Grade: A (+ removed for small glitches in service)

Location: 435 Hudson Street @ Leroy

Website: http://www.enjb.com

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August 14, 2011 · 11:31 pm

5 Ninth

Exterior

After three years of passing and peaking into 5 Ninth on my walk home from work and even planning a few events there for my old managers, I finally made a reservation for myself, which was incentivized by a Google-provided 20% discount. Looking like a quaint cottage in an area with modern storefronts and rooftop bars, with three narrow stories and plenty of outdoor space on both ends of the restaurant, this place definitely stands out as breath of fresh air in terms of aesthetics. I can’t say that the restaurant shares the youthful, upbeat energy of the Meatpacking in which it resides, but some may consider this a God-send when it feels like eating elsewhere requires aggressive advanced planning or elbow poking crowds.

back patio

The menu is American and somewhat unadventurous with its variety – it has the classic roast chicken, one or two fish dishes, a couple of pastas and a small selection of salads and appetizers. Mike, Sonia and I split the greek salad, which we were convinced could not go wrong. And while it didn’t fail, the tomatoes and cucumbers were sort of…depressing. Served look warm and over-dressed, the vegetables lacked crunch and the feta had more of the texture of a creamy blue cheese than a crumbly white one.

limp greek salad

My next dish was fairly simple – a grilled striped bass served with swiss chard and white beans. I was pleasantly surprised that it arrived hot out of the oven and traditionally prepared, but the swiss chard was so tough and stringy it was nearly impossible to chew. Mike’s roast chicken had crispy skin but excessive fat, and was served surrounding an overwhelming abundance of “mojo” sauce, a sweet and sour salsa that made the spinach and lentils look like an afterthought.

black bass

roast chicken with unidentifiable sauce

Despite the stale bread that we had only received after asking, I was close to leaving 5 Ninth satisfied, though not impressed, by my experience. The manager gave us a special thanks for coming and the scene outside was quite serene. But just as we were exiting, I couldn’t help but suddenly notice vigorous rustling in the black dumpster situated to my left. And once we realized that the sound wasn’t coming from a person, but from some kind of live animal, all positive memories vanished.

Yes, I know I’m living in denial to think that most restaurants in New York aren’t plagued with infestations, but the last thing I could ask for is to discover them mid-meal. It’s too bad that I left disappointed because the restaurant definitely has potential – it just needs to clean up its act, starting with the obvious – no seating customers next to garbage cans. That said, apparently they have a great deal for Happy Hour, so for such a beautiful setting, and I think it’s safe to assume that the rats aren’t focused on the booze.

Grade: C

Location: 5 Ninth Avenue at Gansevoort Street

Website: http://www.5ninth.com

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August 3, 2011 · 3:15 am

Marea

Despite the fact that I’m so painfully full, I can’t resist professing how completely blown away I am by my meal at Marea tonight. It has been almost a year to the day since my inaugural visit with my friends Sophia and Sara, but Chef Michael White’s inventiveness, sheer skill, and ability to successfully yet respectfully break the boundaries of italian cuisine has only gotten better. And the space, service, and sophisticated clientele couldn’t be better matched with the caliber of food – don’t expect to kick back and relax at this place. From scoring a 6pm reservation, to being seated at the table, to ordering, to figuring out every possible fleck of $100 per ounce ingredient on your plate, the experience at Marea is serious business.

With such a long list of descriptive menu options, the four-course pre-fixe menu is the best way to go at a $40 per entree restaurant like Marea. For $90, you have a choice of antipasti, pasta, pesce or carne, and dessert, which not only makes the most economical sense, but also helps to narrow things down for the indecisive like me. I for once went with my instinct and picked the first things that caught my eye: tuna crudo (supplemental), white asparagus soup with smoked trout and chervil, tagliatelle with nova scotia lobster and coral (who know coral was edible?), and hudson valley baby chicken with a number of things that took a backseat to the copious shavings of fresh black truffle.

crudo

Every single bite was noteworthy, but the most ridiculous and shockingly delicious dish was the one that completely distracted me from all conversation: the luxurious, velvety, decadent lobster tagliatelle. With long, silky, golden noodles coated in a shiny and subtly-buttery seafood-saffron sauce, these flakey chunks of fresh lobster could not have been more beautifully paired. With dishes such as the famous lobster and burrata antipasti and the bone marrow octopus fusili, Chef Michael White balances very carefully, yet close to perfectly, on the very fine line between luscious and over-the-top rich.

gorgeous golden pasta

hudson valley chicken

While I’m not one prone to ordering chicken, the description of the crispy chicken served with my favorite thing in the world (truffles) was not an option to miss. And I made no mistake, either; the meat was tender, perfectly seasoned, and uniquely paired with soshito peppers and cippolini onions.

For dessert, we ordered a selection of ice creams and sorbets for the table, which were generously portioned for such a high end restaurant but nothing noteworthy. The chocolate crostata however was beautifully presented and the perfect option for a die hard chocolate and coffee combo fan.

chocolate coffee crostata

And, as if we had room for more, we were served tiny yet personally un-enticing mignardises.

too full to taste

With so many courses, you run the risk of getting full very quickly. In order to prevent this, the time between meals needs to be long enough not to rush the process but short enough that your hunger lingers and fullness isn’t realized. My one complaint about Marea is that it missed on this precision – by the time our pastas appeared, we were already on the way to max-capacity, and after 15 minutes of waiting for our final course, we were close to turning it away.

Regardless, the food at Marea is undeniably off the chain. At one point in the night my co-worker Morgan posed the question, “what is the best food you’ve had in the past few years?” I struggled to answer this at the time, but after a cab ride of reflection I can honestly say that Marea goes home with the gold. And I say that with confidence even with the deprecation of their homemade muffin-for-morning-after end of the night give-aways.

Grade: A

Location: 240 Central Park S

Website: http://www.marea-nyc.com

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March 30, 2011 · 2:24 am

Buvette

I get giddy when I fall in love with a new place. It’s almost like the feeling of having butterflies in your stomach after a first date in high school. A true match was made tonight when I finally visited Buvette, a new wine bar in the West Village that I’ve had my eye on since its quaint storefront caught my eye last week. As part of a work scavenger hunt this afternoon, my colleagues and I were tasked with taking a team photo at a wine bar. Though we were across town on the upper east side, I of course considered this an opportunity to visit what I had envisioned to become my new, habitual, neighborhood wine joint.

bright windowed storefront

back room past bar

It was love at first sight. I opened the frail front door, and instantly my heart sank as I took the whole space in. My eyes directed straight back to the french country style semi-private area, with an incredibly eclectic chandelier dramatizing the light hearted, summery and very homey dining room. In the front, wooden benches, mismatched stools, a long marble bar, and a silver tin roof created a spring day vibe, as opposed to the intense, romantic feeling some consider a requirement for wine bars. My two friends from work and I took a seat at the bar, in direct view of the attractive french bartender (in addition to the 10 other staff members working by and around the counter). As the only customers in the restaurant at 4:30pm on a Tuesday, we had the privilege to slowly and calmly breathe in every inch of the impeccably charming ambience.

fresh walnuts with miniature menu

Buvette’s menu is full of delicious cheeses, meats, and tartines, and a small chalk board behind the bar lists a limited variety of small plate specials. Along with our Pouilly Fume wine, we ordered the Kunik cheese, a goat’s milk cheese with a touch of jersey cow cream, which the waiter highly recommended. We also went for the fresh cheese and cherry tomato tartine, which was gorgeously creamy, drizzled with pungent olive oil, capers, and slightly pickled cherry tomatoes. The combination was divine, and along with charred, freshly oiled crostini, the kunik cheese was outstanding. Served with subtly flavored stewed cherries, these pure and simply sweet and salty ingredients joined to form an indescribably complex yet well rounded pair.

kunik cheese with cherries

crusty bread with fresh oil

tartine

I had no intention of eating a heavy load at Buvette, but after finishing off the cheese in sheer happiness, I couldn’t resist a slice of the tarte tatin that rested gracefully on a cake platter and tantalized me throughout my meal. It arrived with a rustic scoop of creme fraiche, and when I placed a large hunk of crust, apple, and cream in my mouth, the nerve wracking Inglorious Bastards’ restaurant scene with Christopher Waltz and Melanie Laurent instantly popped in my head. I remember when watching that moment intently, I became distracted by (of course) nothing else but the generous dollap of gorgeous cream resting on her tart. Finally, I was able to put taste to that image with every bite of this gorgeous sweet. It was so decadent that I didn’t even regret breaking my no-dessert lent to indulge!

rustic chunky flakey creamy goodness

I soon discovered that the woman in apron seated to my left was the former chef of Morandi, and the owner of Buvette. Though she indulged me in my lust over the place by answering my questions, she was far from warm and friendly, which I guess fit quite well with every other French detail. The waiters also seemed less than thrilled that despite our positive feedback, we had interrupted their calm before the swarm of West Village winos. Cute and fuzzy service aside, the food, wine, and setting alone is enough to make me proclaim Buvette as my absolute favorite new wine bar in the city. I already have plans to return tomorrow.

Grade: A

Location: 42 Grove St btwn Bedford and Bleecker

Website: http://www.ilovebuvette.com

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February 25, 2011 · 2:34 am

ABC Kitchen – Dinner Round 2

Many of you know that I previously reviewed ABC Kitchen, but having tried it just a few months after opening, I have been dying to go back to taste the improvements and give its service a second chance. Thankfully, Runway Hippie’s mom was in town this Sunday and we used her AmEx rewards membership to score a last minute reservation for 5 (who knew?). And, after not seeing Sones for over a week, I was desperate to be back in her arms! At 7:30pm, the place was alive with posh couples and casually dressed middle-aged groups. I just love the feeling of the place: low lighting sets the mood for intimate conversation, while white, eclectic furniture and antique porcelain tableware amplify the energy. And the menu packs in a ton of enticing, unpretentious, sophisticated food.

As a table, we shared the mushroom, parmesan, oregano, and farm egg pizza, served piping hot. The egg ran over as a result of being undercooked, but the whole wheat crust and delicate wild mushrooms made it quite the competitive asset.

farm egg pizza

Sonia and I then shared a spinach, mushroom, and quinoa salad, which they kindly divided for us. The vinaigrette tasted too sour, but I remember this from my last meal here – Jean Georges tends to go emphasize citrus and tangy flavors. The salad was perfectly fine, but Sonia’s mom’s appetizer of pretzel dusted calamari really grew my order envy.

spinach goat cheese salad

Calamari

For my main course, I ordered simply in an attempt to detox from a weekend of fried food in New Orleans. Fortunately, that’s easy to do here as the menu offers a variety of healthy options showcasing fresh and local ingredients. My steamed cod came with no surprises – just a straightforward, well seasoned, steamed piece of fish. It was exactly what I wanted at the time, but nothing I would recommend ordering with hopes to get a true sense of the chef’s talents.

cod with fennel

I often profess that I pretty much enjoy all food aside from mayonnaise and lamb. Mayonnaise for the obvious reasons (it’s the most fowl food on earth), and lamb because it tastes like the smell of a farm. But when Sonia’s huge lamb shank appeared, I couldn’t deny myself a taste, and I’m glad I didn’t. This lamb was as tender as duck confit, with crispy, caramelized skin and a subtly meaty flavor. I wouldn’t label myself a lamb convert, but I can admit that this dish at ABC Kitchen is a standout.

surprisingly tasty lamb

I also snagged a bite of Sonia’s mother’s bucatini with spinach, goat cheese and bread crumbs, which turned into an interesting medley of textures in my mouth. I’ve decided that crispy breadcrumbs in pasta is a great new invention and a solution to typically one dimensional noodle dishes.

pasta!

Let’s be honest here. After eating pralines and beignets all weekend, I still couldn’t wait to taste a few items from the dessert menu, what I consider ABC Kitchen’s forte. I remembered the pleasure I had in eating the sundae with salted caramel ice cream, candied peanuts & popcorn, whipped cream and chocolate sauce, so we ordered that in addition to the banana chip ice cream cake and the pear bread pudding. The banana ice cream cake was beautiful, but the banana flavor was a little too intense, bringing me back to my childhood of sucking on banana flavored Now and Laters. The pear bread pudding was great, but as I expected, I dominated the ice cream sundae. Generous scoops of salted caramel ice cream on decadent hot fudge sauce with crispy caramel popcorn might be one of the most genius combos I’ve tasted.

pear bread pudding

banana chip cake with walnuts

Heavvennnn

So, the thoughts about my meal being ordinary (aside from the awesome pizza) were suddenly erased with a finale of salted caramel ice cream. Though the food at ABC Kitchen may not live up to all of the hype, it’s still delicious, and a good option if you’re looking for a beautifully crafted menu, a unique, spacious setting and a toned down version of Jean-George’s typically over fancified food.

Grade: B+

Location: 35 East 18th Street between Park and Broadway (inside ABC Home & Garden)

Website: http://jeangeorges.blogspot.com/2010/03/abc-kitchen-now-open.html

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February 9, 2011 · 3:36 am

Spasso

I left Spasso tonight with a full belly and a huge smile. Splendid. With monthly restaurant openings in the West Village, I’ve grown pessimistic about this area’s success rate, but tonight’s meal showed serious promise for what’s to come. Spasso’s cartoonish, tacky awning is no sign of its tasteful, cozy interior. A marble lined bar consumes the narrow entry way, but a spacious, subtly lit dining area in the back faces mirrors and an open kitchen, bringing warmth on one of the coldest nights of the year. With similar sophistication to that of L’artusi and Dell’Anima, with less pretentiousness and anxiety around finding a place to stand, Spasso responds well to my requests of what my neighborhood needs to see more of.

Our server was spot on with timing, and carefully attentive to my sister and my needs. After placing our order, he came right back with bread, allowing us to chat and enjoy our wine before our appetizers came out. Despite the increasing demand for tables, we felt rushed by no one else but the couple at the bar grilling our table like a lion sizing up its prey.

view from our table

We started with the housemade stracciatella cheese and grilled bread, and the only salad on the menu, tricolore with parmesan cheese. The salad was very well seasoned and light, but it incomparable to the most beautiful depiction of cheese I’ve ever seen. Served in a bowl, the straciatella was basically the creamiest of creamy burrata torn into pieces and served as a textural dip. Indescribably amazing. I’m rarely rendered speechless by a dish, but something this simple, so well seasoned, and so true to its ingredients merited more than just moments of silence. The milky mozzarella liquid was so fresh – like liquid gold for my crusty, garlicky bread. This stracciatella may have just permanently switched up my weekly routine – who says you can’t eat a bowl of cheese for dinner?

Precious

Insalata Tricolore

We ordered the eggplant arancini and the roasted cod for our main courses, but I held onto the cheese in fear of seeing it disappear. The arancini were smoky, delicately fried, but not overwhelmingly greasy. The crispness of the brown crust in the accompanying red pepper whipped ricotta created a beautiful combination of contrasting textures and subtle flavors.

fried eggplant balls

Cod can easily bore me, but this cod melted on my tongue. It was perfectly browned and seasoned and paired well with the citrusy puree and roasted potatoes. Interesting flairs made a potentially simple dish exciting, and the skill with which it was cooked was outstanding.  When I am constantly nodding my head in approval throughout a meal, I know it’s a sign I’ll be back.

cod special

The dessert menu was limited, but each of the four choices sounded incredible. The one that stood out to me? Yep, you got it, the dark chocolate crostata with salted caramel and sea salt. Just saying it out loud satisfies my chocolate craving. When the tarte came out naked, sans whipped cream or ice cream, I went into auto-pilot disappointment. But upon piercing my fork into the layers of dense chocolate, creamy golden caramel and crumbly chocolate crust, I suspected that this simplicity need not be obstructed by distractions. And with one bite, I felt like I had taken some sort of mega anti-depressant. I felt like dancing. I felt like screaming, Eureka! Spasso has FOUND IT! Honestly, I can’t further describe the uniqueness and well roundedness of this chocolate dessert, but I order you to go to Spasso and learn for yourself. If you’re looking for the depiction of chocolate beauty, this is the place to go. And though two or three bites of this immaculate creation would have been sufficient, I just had to eat the whole thing in fear of never seeing it again.

when I'm craving chocolate, this is what I never knew I was imagining

So with that, I end my night in total abundance, pleasure, excitement, and concern. I’m completely full, content with the quality of my meal, thrilled that I find Spasso in the heart of my stomping grounds, but fearful that before long I’ll hear more “only 5pm or 11pm” responses when I call for a reservation. Worries aside, Spasso deserves attention, so I’m glad to spread the word that tonight, Hudson street earned additional marks of excellence in my book.

Grade: A

Location: 551 Hudson Street @ Perry Street

Website: http://www.spassonyc.com

*first picture from Spasso website, stracciatella from Grub Street

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January 4, 2011 · 4:07 am

Meme Mediterranean

Since Meme’s opening a few months ago, I’ve been mustering up the motivation to try it as temperatures outside decline and take-out seems to win me over each night. Finally, after a long flight away from a two week vacation at  home in San Francisco, I felt ready. Not only did I need something new and exciting to take my mind off of leaving my family and the post blizzard destruction near my apartment, but Meme’s appeared to be the cozy, low key place I needed to fill me up after 7 hours of airplane snacks and granola bars. Fortunately, the restaurant was relatively empty when we arrived so my dining partner-in-crime and I chose a comfy, cushioned booth spot in the corner. We had a view of the entire square-shaped restaurant, including a small full bar against the back-wall where waitstaff congregates and looks for signals to provide assistance.


The meal was delicious from start to finish, and I was able to get a hearty amount of comfort food without feeling overly full from rich sauces or carbo-centric dishes. My one qualm related to the “bread basket.” I put this in quotes because the bread, though served in a basket, was quite the opposite of the bread basket I so commonly praise. Before ordering, the waiter came around with a tray of bread, which, symbolizing choice and freshness, made me really excited. After being served a thin sliver of slightly stale olive bread, I realized this was the restaurant’s way of skimping on their bread servings. Fortunately, the rest of the meal made up for this setback.

To start, we split the House Chopped Salad with a generous amount of feta, cucumber, tomatoes, and peppers. The salad came with a few slices of warm pita, and was cold, lightly dressed, and well portioned. After seeing the hummus and pita fly by to another table, we placed a late order with our waiter. It was some of the best hummus I’ve had – even better than what I tasted in Israel. Light and creamy in the center, and thicker on the outside, it paired perfectly with the surrounding toasted pita and mini, crispy falafel.

We went with our waiter’s two recommendations for our entrees, the Chicken
Tagine and the Grilled Wild Striped bass. The bass was flakey and well-seasoned, but actually had a slightly fishy taste. Still, the sauce of tomatoes, bell peppers, chickpeas and onions was delicious, and could have been a meal on its own on top of the side of rice. The Chicken Tagine, served in a large clay pot, was warm, hearty, and bursting with flavor. The meat was tender, and the mounds of cous cous were buttery, soft, and wonderfully cooked. I would definitely return for this – a quintessential warm and comforting winter dish.

For dessert, we had no hesitation in choosing the Molten Chocolate Lava Cake with a hearty spoonful of whipped cream. If the restaurant offered ice cream, I would have ordered it, but the cake was delicious enough to appreciate it regardless. Rather than being a chocolate cake with a softer inside, it was more like a dense shell that oozed with chocolate sauce when pierced. Ice cream would have definitely been a better accompaniment, but I’ll just keep that in mind when I’m looking for a restaurant that will truly satisfy my typical dessert craving.

Meme has solid food at the right price, and with a wide selection of honest Mediterranean food, it’s a great addition to the mix of Hudson street restaurants. I’ll come back here if I’m looking for a low key, unpretentious spot with guilt-free food that will warm my belly.

Grade: B+
Website: No website yet!
Location: 581 Hudson Street at West 11th

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December 29, 2010 · 4:40 pm

Barbuto

I’ve blogged about Barbuto before, and I rarely blog about the same place twice, but it merits as many positive reviews as I can possibly write. It is hands down my favorite restaurant in New York City – not because it necessarily has the most diverse or adventurous food or the hottest scene, but because every item their kitchen produces is cooked to perfection. The menu is simple, straight forward, and the dishes set out to star fresh, core ingredients in the best light possible.

The dish that continuously keeps me walking around the corner to this place is the Roast Chicken. It’s crispy on the outside, perfectly seasoned, and at first sight substantial enough to share, but never ends up sufficing because it is just so damn delicious. Just before I left for my winter break in San Francisco, I stopped in Barbuto to get my last roast chicken fix. Jonathan Waxman, the owner and Master Chef himself was there roaming around tables and making final touches in the kitchen in a straight up pajama suit. After watching him on Top Chef, it was quite a surprising sight. Even more inspiring was to look at this man and realize that his genius pours through every part of the restaurant, from the glass walls, to the dainty bar, the airy space, the open air kitchen, and the pristine food. It’s because of him that I can sit in such a gorgeous and spacious converted garage with locally grown food in the midst of restaurants struggling with over-complicated food.

Barbuto’s pastas are homemade, and tend to feature no more than 2-3 seasonal ingredients. Because the menu rotates so frequently, if you fall in love with a pasta dish (as I did with the papardelle with meat sauce and ricotta), be sure you take home enough to last through the  year. Fortunately, each new pasta has so far been just as good, if not better, than the last. This time, I tried the gnocchi con zucca, or gnocchi with roasted squash and sage. The gnocchi was tender and lightly seared, adding a little char and texture that rounded out the lovely pan sauce. Buttery and rich, this was the perfect appetizer for a cold winter’s night. Another new dish that I tried as an appetizer was the cavolini crudi – shaved brussels sprouts, baby carrots, pecorino & breadcrumbs. This salad was just up my ally with a cheesy, salty flavor in every bite and an unbeatable freshness of cold brussels sprout slaw.

I’m also such a fiend of their special fish dishes, so this time, I ordered the whole grilled black bass for my main, which felt like 4 servings of fish on a single body. The skin was deliciously charred, and the fish light, well seasoned, and perfectly filling. To accompany our mains,  we ordered the incredibly-crispy-fried potatoes served with a small sprinkling of white salty cheese. These potatoes are so crunchy they’re the child of a french frie and potato chip couple, and they’re completely addicting.

 

Sinful Crispy Fried Potatoes
Peppermint Semifreddo with Fudge and Chocolate Crisp

Their desserts are insane – consistenly creative and multi-textured. This round I had the budino with vanilla ice cream and the peppermint-chocolate semi-freddo. Because of the rotational menu, I wasn’t able to get the life-changing chocolate hazelnut tart that I first tried at the chef’s table, but their sweets never fail and the layers of textures and flavors in both of these made the perfect end to a solid meal.

I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again – I love love LOVE Barbuto. Despite my long list of must-try restaurants, Barbuto always takes precedent, and I give thanks and praises everyday that my apartment is just 2 blocks away.

Grade: A+
Location: 775 Washington Street @ West 12th
Website: http://www.barbutonyc.com

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Filed under Erin's Favorites, Fun Group Dinner, Italian, Mediterranean, Parents in Town, Private Party, Romantic Date, West Village

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December 25, 2010 · 6:04 pm

Joseph Leonard – Drinks & Appetizers

Just before the craziness of the holiday I made an effort to catch up with my friend Justin, a long-time Restaurant biz affiliate and a current member of the team operating Tom Colicchio’s Craft. Considering his industry knowledge, I could only expect that we would meet somewhere fabulous, and was thrilled when he proposed the option of dining at the West Village’s highly coveted The Lion. With his connections we were able to secure an 8:30pm reservation. Translation: just over an hour after work ended to initiate our drinks and meal elsewhere.

Joseph Leonard is just steps away from The Lion, and despite its tight quarters and no-reservation policy, a solid, basic spot to meet. I love the warmth and coziness of this place – its small wooden tables and chairs, mini open kitchen, chalkboard menu specials, and hipster waitstaff make it the epitome of a “neighborhood joint.” Having just re-opened after a month-long recovery from a kitchen fire, the menu was more limited than usual but sufficient to tide us over for the star of the night.
We were seated promptly at the bar with the undivided attention of the man behind it, whom Justin informed me was the restaurant’s owner. Given his scruffy beard and beanie, I never would have guessed. With our drinks we ordered a selection of small plates to share (though the short rib on the plate next to us looked amazing). The grilled octopus with white bean puree, parsley pesto and almonds arrived first, and although beautifully plated, it was to my surprise disguised within the puree like that of rock shrimp in a risotto. With the layers of each component sitting atop an overwhelming amount of what was actually parsley oil rather than pesto, the flavors of the octopus were distracted by a greasy mouth feel and the overall dish was bland.

Soon after the clams casino with chunks of bacon, croutons, and parsley arrived, a unique interpretation of the large stuffed clams in clams casino I’ve had before. The little-neck clams were dense and meaty, and the croutons floating in the light, robust clam broth were buttery, crispy, and decadent. While it was difficult to eat the bread and clam at the same time, each element was individually satisfying.

 

Our roasted brussels sprouts with siracha was definitely the winner. Sliced and dressed lightly in oil, the sprouts took the form of a deliciously crispy, slightly charred slaw cooked just enough to keep its crunch.

By the time we left for our 8:30pm reservation, the restaurant was bustling with happy people and an awesome classic playlist. Though rough around the edges, there’s no doubt that this place will live a long life and that I’ll be back for the full experience before long.

Grade: B+
Address: 170 Waverly Place
Wesbite: http://www.josephleonard.com

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