Erin A La Carte

I had never had icebox cake, and I wasn’t even sure what it was until it randomly called my name last Sunday afternoon during my weekend visit to Billy’s Bakery. Craving something fluffy, cold, and sweet, I purchased an entire $5 slice of the 20-chocolate-cookie cake tower smothered with layer upon layer of thick, freshly whipped cream. It was subtle, decadent, and utterly delicious, but I couldn’t help but notice that some of the cream on the edges had stiffened, leading me to question its freshness.

Billy's Version

Immediately after eating the cake, I was traumatized by my gluttony and promised to swear off sweets all week. Of course, that always has a 90% chance of failing considering the four bakeries I pass on my way home from work, and last night, low and behold I find myself in Magnolia Bakery. Despite every intention to get something peanut-buttery (and small), the icebox cake again caught my eye. I was sure that nothing could beat Billy’s version, despite its crusty edges, but I was wrong. Magnolia’s icebox cake was colder, softer, less excruciatingly sweet (though don’t get me wrong it’s still pretty damn sweet)…simply more addicting. I ate more of this massive slice than I did of the Billy’s slice on Sunday, which is proof alone that our relationship was stronger. Considering I am a diehard Billy’s fan (and an underground Magnolia hater), I was shocked. But I can’t deny that Magnolia won the gold for this item.

Magnolia's version

After doing research, I found out that icebox cake is as simple as the name sounds – layers of chocolate wafers sandwiched between fresh whipped cream. The recipe has only four ingredients (though massive amounts of heavy cream). Whether you make it or not, skip the cupcakes at Magnolia and try their version. For all of its dense layers, it manages to keep its lightness, and I bet you a million cupcakes that you won’t be able to stop at one bite.

Finally! I got an opportunity to see what this mysterious speakeasy-style restaurant is all about. In a nutshell, it’s precisely like Freeman’s in the lower east side, but instead of being hidden down an alley, it’s masked by an discreet green door with no visible sign. Once you enter off of Morton, a fantastical garden with loosely strung lights and vine-covered brick unveils itself, leading you up a few stairs to a cozy but bustling dining room aside an open kitchen and a separate bar. Low ceilings and close quarters create a seductive and romantic ambience, and the idea of being tucked away and inaccessible to the New York public makes the experience that much more special.

I visited last night with a party of 6, so instead of being seated in the cozy upstairs dining room, we were seated in a room in the basement that looked like what I would imagine a secret, ancient, candle-lit hide-away in a castle to look like. Stone walls, a simple wooden table, stacked wine, and just enough room to shimmy around the table. But the size and nakedness of the room wasn’t pitiful – it was charming. And despite being tucked away from the main action, our server couldn’t have been more attentive.

I started with the special Calacas cocktail made of jalapeño tequila, beet, lime, agave, chili-himalayan salt. The bartender was not shy with the beet, so if you’re not a huge fan, I wouldn’t recommend it. Fortunately, being with a large group made the case for trying mostly everything on the menu food-wise, including the unlisted specials. To start, I had the endive salad with marcona almonds, sun-dried tomato, drops of creamy blue cheese and a light, creamy, apple dijon dressing. This was served chilled, and honestly one of the best, most interesting salads I’ve had. I also had a taste of the veggie pot pie, quinoa and vegetables, and the smoked mozzarella bruschetta with pan fried chicken sausage. While the base of the veggie pot pie was sort of like canned creamy vegetable soup, the crust was light and flakey. The quinoa and vegetables was just as described – nothing more than a simple grain mixed with simply prepared vegetables – despite being basic, though, I still see the value of having something like this on the menu, and probably would order it again. The showstopper of the starters, however, was the special thick crusted bruschetta covered in fresh cheese, sundried tomatoes, and generous heaps of crispy chicken sausage. This alone would have been an awesome main course.

Endive Salad

Quinoa

Veggie Pot Pie

I also tasted the butter clams with gnocchi, which was served in a light and simple broth. Not mind blowing, but very solid.

gnocchi and clams

My main course of Atlantic striped bass with whipped sweet potato was unfortunately disappoint compared to the rest. The fish was overcooked and far too dense to cut into, and the fingerling potatoes combined with the whipped sweet potato was too much for me. The dish would have been fine without one. Fortunately, I could focus on the sides of simple brussel sprouts, creamy polenta, and leek and mushroom ragout served with cauliflower puree. All were very straightforward, nothing out of the ordinary, but definitely delicious.

Atlantic Bass

steak

Despite a disappointing entree, I was still really enjoying myself throughout the meal. Dessert, sadly, didn’t make matters much better considering nothing was served with ice cream, but I was pleased to try all of the variations. The lemon bar with graham crust and lemon creme fraiche was my favorite, but others raved over the apple tarte tatin with seasalt caramel and whipped cream. The chocolate brownie, however, was a seriously poor excuse for a brownie – the size of a silver dollar, hard, crusty, and not even warm in the middle! And serving it with a glass of whole milk did not make up for the fact that it was lacking a serious scoop of vanilla ice cream.

lemon bar

Though I have my fair share of gripes about the food at Hudson Clearwater, I would be happy to go back just for the cocktails, the varied menu, and the ambience. Nothing at all was horrible – not even the overcooked fish. Like Freeman’s, everything is pretty simple and very good, just not overwhelmingly great. But the vibe of the place makes up for it, and with the weather cooling down as we approach winter, the warm and comforting dining room of Hudson Clearwater may just become a frequent destination.

Grade: B-

Location: 447 Hudson, entrance @ Morton

Website: www.hudsonclearwater.com

Last night a few girlfriends and I decided to see a 9pm movie in Chelsea. Of course, as normal people should do, we planned a quick meal before showtime at a nearby restaurant called Momoya. Momoya is a Japanese restaurant with style – closer to Haru and Bond Street on the spectrum of modern sushi restaurants – but unfortunately only serves beer, saki, wine. Regardless, my girlfriends and I agreed that it was some of the best sushi (and prices) we have had in a very long time.

Momoya doesn’t take reservations, but at 7pm I was seated without my full party (so refreshing in a city with dictators as hosts) in a cute corner table upon arrival. Every server I encountered was incredibly warm and friendly, and even better, their menu isn’t a bible with hundreds of complex pages like most intense sushi restaurants – they make it easy to read and easy to choose what you want to order. Considering I had eaten lunch only three hours before arriving, I ordered lightly and had the seaweed salad and special Greenwich Roll with spicy hamachi, asparagus, cucumber, jalapeno, and “crunchies.” Some may think seaweed salad is standard and the same at every restaurant. That’s just not true. I’ve had incredibly fish seaweed salad, salty seaweed salad, watery seaweed salad – it has large room for error considering it’s made with a plant that lives in the sea. This particular version was subtly flavored with sesame and soy, and not fishy in the slightest. My sushi was refreshing, and addicting. With the fine drizzle of teriyaki and crunchy tempura pieces paired with fresh veggies and raw fish, it had the perfect combination of hearty and light flavors.

Greenwich Roll

I also had a chance to taste Sara’s crispy rice, which is the signature restaurant at COI uptown and has now been adopted by other restaurants nationally. Though it was listed under the specialty rolls on the menu, it is served in the form of nigiri, with spicy tuna and jalapeno perfectly placed on a dense bed of fried, crispy sushi rice. It is honestly incredible, and the contrast of the crunchy rice under the soft tuna was killer!

Crispy Rice

Miso Cod

Kilo’s miso black cod appetizer was delicious as well. For only $12, she was served two beautiful filets of hot, buttery fish along with swiss chard and a small serving of sweet pumpkin puree. Along with our two bottles of saki, we managed to have a guilt-free meal with a side of decadence.

If you don’t mind being in the hustle and bustle of Chelsea on 7th Ave, I highly recommend trying Momoya for a delicious and well-priced Japanese meal.

Grade: A

Location: 185 7th Ave between 21st and 22nd

Website: www.themomoya.com