
Finally! I got an opportunity to see what this mysterious speakeasy-style restaurant is all about. In a nutshell, it’s precisely like Freeman’s in the lower east side, but instead of being hidden down an alley, it’s masked by an discreet green door with no visible sign. Once you enter off of Morton, a fantastical garden with loosely strung lights and vine-covered brick unveils itself, leading you up a few stairs to a cozy but bustling dining room aside an open kitchen and a separate bar. Low ceilings and close quarters create a seductive and romantic ambience, and the idea of being tucked away and inaccessible to the New York public makes the experience that much more special.
I visited last night with a party of 6, so instead of being seated in the cozy upstairs dining room, we were seated in a room in the basement that looked like what I would imagine a secret, ancient, candle-lit hide-away in a castle to look like. Stone walls, a simple wooden table, stacked wine, and just enough room to shimmy around the table. But the size and nakedness of the room wasn’t pitiful – it was charming. And despite being tucked away from the main action, our server couldn’t have been more attentive.
I started with the special Calacas cocktail made of jalapeño tequila, beet, lime, agave, chili-himalayan salt. The bartender was not shy with the beet, so if you’re not a huge fan, I wouldn’t recommend it. Fortunately, being with a large group made the case for trying mostly everything on the menu food-wise, including the unlisted specials. To start, I had the endive salad with marcona almonds, sun-dried tomato, drops of creamy blue cheese and a light, creamy, apple dijon dressing. This was served chilled, and honestly one of the best, most interesting salads I’ve had. I also had a taste of the veggie pot pie, quinoa and vegetables, and the smoked mozzarella bruschetta with pan fried chicken sausage. While the base of the veggie pot pie was sort of like canned creamy vegetable soup, the crust was light and flakey. The quinoa and vegetables was just as described – nothing more than a simple grain mixed with simply prepared vegetables – despite being basic, though, I still see the value of having something like this on the menu, and probably would order it again. The showstopper of the starters, however, was the special thick crusted bruschetta covered in fresh cheese, sundried tomatoes, and generous heaps of crispy chicken sausage. This alone would have been an awesome main course.

Endive Salad

Quinoa

Veggie Pot Pie
I also tasted the butter clams with gnocchi, which was served in a light and simple broth. Not mind blowing, but very solid.

gnocchi and clams
My main course of Atlantic striped bass with whipped sweet potato was unfortunately disappoint compared to the rest. The fish was overcooked and far too dense to cut into, and the fingerling potatoes combined with the whipped sweet potato was too much for me. The dish would have been fine without one. Fortunately, I could focus on the sides of simple brussel sprouts, creamy polenta, and leek and mushroom ragout served with cauliflower puree. All were very straightforward, nothing out of the ordinary, but definitely delicious.

Atlantic Bass

steak
Despite a disappointing entree, I was still really enjoying myself throughout the meal. Dessert, sadly, didn’t make matters much better considering nothing was served with ice cream, but I was pleased to try all of the variations. The lemon bar with graham crust and lemon creme fraiche was my favorite, but others raved over the apple tarte tatin with seasalt caramel and whipped cream. The chocolate brownie, however, was a seriously poor excuse for a brownie – the size of a silver dollar, hard, crusty, and not even warm in the middle! And serving it with a glass of whole milk did not make up for the fact that it was lacking a serious scoop of vanilla ice cream.

lemon bar
Though I have my fair share of gripes about the food at Hudson Clearwater, I would be happy to go back just for the cocktails, the varied menu, and the ambience. Nothing at all was horrible – not even the overcooked fish. Like Freeman’s, everything is pretty simple and very good, just not overwhelmingly great. But the vibe of the place makes up for it, and with the weather cooling down as we approach winter, the warm and comforting dining room of Hudson Clearwater may just become a frequent destination.
Grade: B-
Location: 447 Hudson, entrance @ Morton
Website: www.hudsonclearwater.com