Tag Archives: french

May 24, 2013 · 11:58 pm

Lafayette: neck and neck with Balthazar as my favorite brasserie

dj-laf-blog480

Balthazar is one of the few restaurants that has remained one of my favorites since since moving to New York 5 years ago (I still can’t get over how long it’s been). I love it for the atmosphere – the hastiness of the waitstaff zooming by, the energy of the people in the room, the wide brasserie style seating, and I go back each time of course for the food and drink – the amazing bread and butter, the simple salads, the hot fudge covered profiteroles, and the shockingly strong French 75′s get me every time. Everything about this place screams New York brasserie, which Keith McNally seems to do so well.

Never did I ever imagine that a newcomer could one up such a longstanding New York staple, but after my epic experience at beautiful Lafayette last Tuesday, I think Balthazar may need to up its game to remain the king of the brasserie crop. Lafayette, which took over the massive Chinatown Brasserie space, is a beautifully spacious, well-lit and enchanting French brasserie that transports you from New York city to a fantasy land (think Great Gatsby) where there’s not a care in the world. I walked in and gasped – a delectable boulangerie with mounds of pastries welcomes you at the entrance, and with staircases and side-by-side booths to optimize the space, there really doesn’t seem to be a bad table in the house. And just like Balthazar, there’s this inescapable and addictive vibrancy – everyone is more alive than ever: happy, hungry and actively people watching.

lafayette bakery

grandiose bakery upfront

Service was humble and spot on. After a few slices of the rustic sourdough bread with salted butter and a delicious glass of champagne (cremant de Bourgogne), we were served Eggs Lafayette, essentially two stuffed hard boiled eggs with sable fish and trout caviar. Absolutely heaven on earth, and pretty much the best, most unique rendition of deviled eggs I’ve ever had. Next was the Pate Maison, which came with brown ceramic jars of unlimited cornichons (great touch) and brown mustard and grilled rustic bread. This paired well with the massive, lightly dressed butter lettuce salad with roquefort and country ham. RARELY am I impressed by a salad, but this was so fresh, light and stunning with the creamy blue cheese. I was dying for a pasta, but in an effort to eat lightly I went for the steamed trout, served with an utterly flavorful bean and tomato “mush” that I couldn’t get enough of.

Dessert was insane too. Hot fried beignets with chocolate mousse fulfilled my craving for something classic, and the Sweet Cheese Cremant with blueberry sorbet proved that there’s more than just traditional dishes at this place. By the end of the meal, I was reluctant to leave our cozy booth for two, but I have every intention of coming back next week for a bowl of the gorgeous black fettuccine that was served to my neighbor.

pate maison (photo from seriouseats)

pate maison (photo from SeriousEats)

blueberry cremant (photo from SeriousEats)

blueberry cremant (photo from SeriousEats)

Compared to Balthazar, I think the standout difference of Lafayette is its slightly more elegant setting and menu (and a few more pastas) – Balthazar is just a touch more core to its rustic French brasserie roots. Either way, it’s going to be a real toss up the next time I’m in the mood for French food.

Grade: A+
Location: 380 Lafayette Street at the corner of Great Jones and Lafayette
Website:

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March 15, 2013 · 12:24 pm

Prune: simple, stand-out French fare in quaint quarters

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Prune is another one of those special places, like Buvette, who’s got their brand essence down to a T; the feeling of elegant comfort is oozing throughout every minor detail of the restaurant. The bright pink awning, the matching pink menus and pink-uniformed wait staff, the tiny wooden tables, the adorable open kitchen exposing big copper pots, the white bowls of citrus, the hand-written menus, and the rustic wainscoting create the perfect aura of an adorable French cafe. No trendy stilettos and 3 hour wait lists here – Prune draws a neighborhood crowd looking for comfort in a sea of Lower East Side Manhattan scenesters. The setting, in addition to the delicious food, is why I entered and left the place smiling.

Prune is a legend. I’ve been reading about it since I moved to New York 4+ years ago, but it takes a lot to get me to venture to the Lower East Side. Fortunately, I was out of work early so I couldn’t pass up the invitation to have dinner there with my boyfriend, a long time fan of the place. I started my meal off with an italian greyhound- my ideal cocktail of vodka, fresh squeezed grapefruit, campari and rosemary served over massive ice cubes in a dainty glass tumbler and the perfect side-kick to the tin of seriously addictive chick-pea flatbread. I arrived pretty hungry, so that in addition to the fairly meat-heavy menu led me to order more heartily than usual. We started with the parmesan omelette and a side of swiss chard with olives, both light and beautifully simple. The omelette, slightly browned, was a savory combo of just a few ingredients: eggs, generous shavings of parmesan and beautiful flakes of salt. With the lightly sautéed greens, it would have been a beautiful meal on its own, but I couldn’t resist trying the filet mignon and homemade pork sausage that the couple was devouring next to us.

pretty in pink

pretty in pink

sidecar + flatbread

sidecar + roti

omelette = perfection

omelette, lightly browned but moist and soft

swiss chard

swiss chard

pork sausage

pork sausage

steak

steak

I’m not a huge pork fan, but this sausage was awesome, not only because it’s seared to a crisp, but because it wasn’t bursting with oily moisture like some sausages I’ve tried. The flavor is deep and earthy, perfect with the bed of lettuce served beneath it. The compact filet of steak, surrounded by a beautiful fried fan of potatoes, was simple and delicious as well.

Nothing on the dessert menu stuck out to me, but the meal ended with complimentary chunks of dark chocolate (70% as we confirmed) served with the bill. See! Every little detail is well thought out. This is the type of place I want to be and if I were to ever become a restaurateur, would want to open one day. It’s not cheap for the portion sizes, but I’ll definitely be back.

Grade: A
Location: 54 East 1st Street btwn 1st and 2nd Ave
Website

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February 18, 2013 · 10:24 am

Buvette: tiny plates in a tiny space; grand experience

buvette

It make sense that the website URL of this French “gastrotheque” is “ilovebuvette.com,” because I’ve probably said that aloud a dozen times since it opened. In the last week, I was lucky to have two engagements that required no more than small plates and delicious wine, and I was reminded why Buvette is always the perfect place for this type of occasion. It’s not that the food is life-changing – there are definitely stand-outs, like the hot cast iron pot of Coq au Vin, or the thick country bread covered in heaps of stracchino cheese and plump sun-dried tomatoes – but its attentive, unparalleled design is all-consuming. Every detail works together to create a world of rustic French elegance, like the mini card-stock menus engraved like gorgeous wedding invitations, the limited cocktail list, the miniature forks, the delicate round water glasses, the silver trays adorning the ceiling, the wooden bar stools, the tin cans of oil, the tart tatin covered with aggressive scoops of whipped cream sliding down the side and the French servers bustling behind the bar. I feel like Alice in Wonderland, except I’ve been teleported to Paris in another era.

buvette

buvette

photo from ilovebuvette.com

photo from ilovebuvette.com

cassoulet

coq au vin

Things get hectic here,  but it’s worth the experience and the servers have their routine down. If you can manage tight quarters and miniaturized utensils (in other words, you’re not claustrophobic or particularly big and tall), then I highly recommend you visit Buvette for your next “sit-at-the-bar” meal.

Grade: A-
Location: 42 Grove Street btwn Bleecker and Bedford 
Website

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November 8, 2011 · 1:58 am

Le Pain Quotidien

Some people may curse me for blogging about a chain that is almost as prolific as Starbucks in New York, but I really can’t get enough of it. To give this bakery some props, it was first opened in Brussels by a man who was fed up with the quality of bread in Belgium, and it has since become one of my go-to spots for not only homemade organic bread, but also for a filling, healthy lunch. I had my first Pain Quotidien experience in Paris, where I instantly fell in love with the cafe’s wooden communal tables and jars of creamy hazelnut spread shared among the customers for bread dipping. But sugar aside, the real value behind Le Pain Quotidien’s menu is bright, beautifully crafted, quality health food. Their main show-stopper is their creative tartine variations, open-faced sandwiches on brown sourdough bread, but their fresh salads, soups, bakery items, and bowls of hot cappuccinos are equally notable. When I’m in the mood for something light, refreshing, and culinarily satisfying, I head straight to the Pain Quotidien down the street and feel thankful that such an affordable, delicious, and pleasant place is situated just steps from my apartment.

quinoa salad

special lentil salad

buckwheat quiche

I have visited Le Pain Quotidien countless times, but some of my favorite dishes lately are the gluten-free vegetarian quiche (pictured above) and the lentil and quinoa salads, which come with avocado, lettuce, and fresh vegetables. Avocado, which I love, is thankfully found on a lot of their salads. And though these items are all vegetarian friendly, the menu is filled with lunch items that have prosciutto, chicken, or tuna. In fact, my sister’s favorite is their version of a turkey club – an open faced turkey sandwich with avocado and whole grain mustard.

There’s always something new and exciting to try on their menu – my next item is the ricotta and fig tartine. While I wouldn’t suggest it for dinner, when you’re in a part of New York city filled with Au Bon Pains or other processed-food chains, Le Pain Quotidien will be your saving grace.

Grade: A

Location: Multiple

Website: http://www.lepainquotidien.com

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October 29, 2011 · 8:23 pm

Brasserie Les Halles

Funnily enough, the week after Anthony Bourdain made an appearance at Google with his No Reservations’ production crew, my aunt booked us a table at his longstanding Manhattan French bistro, Brasserie Les Halles. For all of the tongue and animal guts he enjoys on his well-known travel series, I was totally surprised by the simple French offerings at his “home base” (as the website states). Considering the restaurant is described as an extension of the bustling Les Halles district in Paris, though, the menu is typically simple and Parisian, just as it should be.

Inside

The restaurant is large, with dark oak detail and wooden chairs and tables. There’s nothing modern or fancy about the vibe, so it’s a perfect spot for a good meal without pretention. I was impressed immediately when a basket of both french and multigrain bread was served upon being seated. Not only did it arrive quickly, but it came alongside a thick circular pat of ice cold, creamy french butter. I could have made a meal out of this simple pairing, and we consumed two servings before our meals even arrived.

simple yet addicting

Service was definitely on the slower side, but by the time we placed our order we didn’t wait too long before our entrees arrived. Deciding what to eat was difficult, but I went with the simple grilled tuna and vegetables. The tuna was served as one large oddly shaped hunk of seared fish that was awkward to maneuver with a fork and knife. The huge pile of crispy shoe string fries, however, paired perfectly with the soft fish and vegetables. The overall flavors were there, and it was cooked just as I had requested.

Pavé de Thon Grillé

The chocolate fondant cake was the standout, as it usually is for me at French restaurants, but the serving of ice cream was a joke. Note to self: order two next time around.

tiny ice cream but mighty cake

Based off of my sister’s delicious crab cake and my aunt’s good looking cauliflower soup and mushroom ravioli, I left this restaurant pleasantly satisfied with the well rounded, simple French meal, incredibly delicious free bread, and the luscious chocolate dessert. I’ll definitely return if I’m in need of an adult-friendly place close to the 6 train, but probably won’t go out of my way for it.

Grade: A-

Location: 411 Park Avenue South (at 29th Street)

Website: http://www.leshalles.net

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July 28, 2011 · 1:41 am

Amy’s Bread: Ham and Butter Sandwich

pure buttery goodness

I rarely eat pork, but every other month a sporadic hankering for the elegant simplicity of a ham, butter, and cornichon baguette consumes me and all bets are off. Nothing close to this sandwich – ham and mayo, turkey and butter, or ham and cheese – can quell the hunger. If the craving arises, I rush to the nearest French cafe with the unadulterated classic, which is often hard to find. I was fortunate enough that the sandwich hunger hit me today just as I was passing Amy’s Bread, my favorite bakery in the city. Amy’s offers a wide selection of gorgeous pre-made sandwiches, but nothing could stop me from zooming in on the very last ham and butter and claiming it as my own (after purchasing of course).

isn't she a beaut?

This straight forward French classic consists of just four ingredients, but horrible renditions are made more often than not. A fresh, crusty French baguette is key, and of course best from the native country, but possible to find at select bakeries in NY (Amy’s, Bouchon, sometimes Whole Foods). The next piece is the butter – no half ass table butter. You need the straight-from-the-cow, room temperature, creamy, saltless butter. The ham of course must be fresh and slightly thicker than the average deli slice, and the cornichons about double the thickness of the meat.

classic ham sandwich display

Had I eaten the Amy’s Bread sandwich a few hours earlier, I would have given it a perfect score. But after a few hours of sitting out the bread need a little grill warmth to get it back to form. Regardless, it still did quite the job of satisfying my twice a year craving that never fails to come out of no where. It may have even been good enough to ignite the craving more often.

Grade: A-

Location: Chelsea Market on 9th Avenue between 15th and 16th Street

Website: http://www.amysbread.com

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July 9, 2011 · 11:22 pm

Cafe Cluny

There's Mer!

I’ve lived in the West Village for three years and I am ashamed to say that before today, I had never dined at Cafe Cluny, a West Fourth Street staple. Fortunately, my friend Mer proposed it for brunch. When I walked in I could immediately understand the appeal of this place. With its cozy yet classy French country feel, it possesses the same style of my imaginary future home. It fits in perfectly with the the beautiful restaurants and stores that surround the area, and with such nostalgia for the West Village I couldn’t have been happier to be eating there.

The bar from back dining room

back dining room

Considering my slow recovery from a bout of food poisoning last night, I wanted to eat simply so I was thrilled to see a solid menu of  standard brunch fare with a subtle french twist. Mer and I both started with the grapefruit-brulee which had a crust as sweet and crispy as a classic creme brulee. Though the sections could have been better cut, the grapefruit was delicious and could definitely be used as a healthy dessert option for those craving the real thing.

grapefruit brulee

Mer went for my sister’s usual: frisee salade aux lardons with a poached egg, while I went for my all time favorite breakfast dish: homemade granola with berries and yogurt. Some of my friends and fellow food lovers would shoot me for opting for such a boring combination, but a serious granola fan knows that this traditional combination can vary immensely. This one happened to be just perfect because the amount of berries far outweighed the yogurt – just as I like it. The granola was crunchy with almonds – another plus in my book – but I wouldn’t say it was the best homemade granola I’ve tasted. I prefer granola with a sticker, freshly-roasted taste.

frisee aux lardons

a match made in heaven

Overall, I would definitely return to Cafe Cluny for a quintessential West Village brunch in a beautiful setting with beautiful people and refined twists of classic dishes. And don’t worry, the fun isn’t over when you finish your meal – even your check comes with large chunks of dark chocolate!

Grade: A-

Location: 284 West Fourth Street at West 12th

Website: http://www.cafecluny.com

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March 30, 2011 · 2:24 am

Buvette

I get giddy when I fall in love with a new place. It’s almost like the feeling of having butterflies in your stomach after a first date in high school. A true match was made tonight when I finally visited Buvette, a new wine bar in the West Village that I’ve had my eye on since its quaint storefront caught my eye last week. As part of a work scavenger hunt this afternoon, my colleagues and I were tasked with taking a team photo at a wine bar. Though we were across town on the upper east side, I of course considered this an opportunity to visit what I had envisioned to become my new, habitual, neighborhood wine joint.

bright windowed storefront

back room past bar

It was love at first sight. I opened the frail front door, and instantly my heart sank as I took the whole space in. My eyes directed straight back to the french country style semi-private area, with an incredibly eclectic chandelier dramatizing the light hearted, summery and very homey dining room. In the front, wooden benches, mismatched stools, a long marble bar, and a silver tin roof created a spring day vibe, as opposed to the intense, romantic feeling some consider a requirement for wine bars. My two friends from work and I took a seat at the bar, in direct view of the attractive french bartender (in addition to the 10 other staff members working by and around the counter). As the only customers in the restaurant at 4:30pm on a Tuesday, we had the privilege to slowly and calmly breathe in every inch of the impeccably charming ambience.

fresh walnuts with miniature menu

Buvette’s menu is full of delicious cheeses, meats, and tartines, and a small chalk board behind the bar lists a limited variety of small plate specials. Along with our Pouilly Fume wine, we ordered the Kunik cheese, a goat’s milk cheese with a touch of jersey cow cream, which the waiter highly recommended. We also went for the fresh cheese and cherry tomato tartine, which was gorgeously creamy, drizzled with pungent olive oil, capers, and slightly pickled cherry tomatoes. The combination was divine, and along with charred, freshly oiled crostini, the kunik cheese was outstanding. Served with subtly flavored stewed cherries, these pure and simply sweet and salty ingredients joined to form an indescribably complex yet well rounded pair.

kunik cheese with cherries

crusty bread with fresh oil

tartine

I had no intention of eating a heavy load at Buvette, but after finishing off the cheese in sheer happiness, I couldn’t resist a slice of the tarte tatin that rested gracefully on a cake platter and tantalized me throughout my meal. It arrived with a rustic scoop of creme fraiche, and when I placed a large hunk of crust, apple, and cream in my mouth, the nerve wracking Inglorious Bastards’ restaurant scene with Christopher Waltz and Melanie Laurent instantly popped in my head. I remember when watching that moment intently, I became distracted by (of course) nothing else but the generous dollap of gorgeous cream resting on her tart. Finally, I was able to put taste to that image with every bite of this gorgeous sweet. It was so decadent that I didn’t even regret breaking my no-dessert lent to indulge!

rustic chunky flakey creamy goodness

I soon discovered that the woman in apron seated to my left was the former chef of Morandi, and the owner of Buvette. Though she indulged me in my lust over the place by answering my questions, she was far from warm and friendly, which I guess fit quite well with every other French detail. The waiters also seemed less than thrilled that despite our positive feedback, we had interrupted their calm before the swarm of West Village winos. Cute and fuzzy service aside, the food, wine, and setting alone is enough to make me proclaim Buvette as my absolute favorite new wine bar in the city. I already have plans to return tomorrow.

Grade: A

Location: 42 Grove St btwn Bedford and Bleecker

Website: http://www.ilovebuvette.com

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March 24, 2011 · 12:06 pm

Breakfast at Pastis

famous Meatpacking vista

When I dined at Pastis for a breakfast meeting yesterday morning, I was reminded why it’s the perfect place for this type of encounter. Within seconds of sitting down, the waitress kindly offered me a drink and croissant while waiting for my guest, and throughout the meal she remained to be at my beck and call. Despite the continuous competitiveness to get into this place on the weekends, the servers are always friendly,  unpretentious, and focused on doing their job right. Quite refreshing in this city.

front dining area

I wouldn’t say there’s necessarily anything astounding or exciting about the weekday breakfast offerings at Pastis, but I give them credit for covering and executing beautifully all of the essentials. Considering it was 8:30am when I placed my order, I went for a simpler choice of fresh grapefruit, homemade yogurt and granola, and mint tea. I wouldn’t normally blog about such a straight forward choice, but when I chomped into the largest, juiciest section of grapefruit I’ve ever eaten, it felt like the summer Gods were signing and I knew then and there I needed to report. Rind free and bitter-less, this fruit was so delectable it tasted sinful.

luscious grapefruit

Sadly this gorgeous citrus trumped my granola and yogurt for most of the meal, but the granola itself was a great temporary distraction. Roasted with dried figs, it tasted similar to my favorite granola at Google’s cafeteria.

yogurt, granola, fresh fruit

With such an uncreative breakfast, I tended to be impressed by the simple things, like the fact that my tea was served just as I would have requested: with tea bag, in a large pot, next to a larger tea cup on the side. One of my pet peeves is receiving a straight up mug with a tea bag, because a) it ends up getting cold and b) you have to remove your tea bag out in order to drink it. I wouldn’t write off a place because of it, but I can definitely give Pastis props for keeping these things in mind (or for coincidentally doing this).

damage

I’ve been to Pastis on the weekends and for dinner as well, but I prefer it as a location for an early morning breakfast meeting – especially on a corporate budget – their items definitely add up. But hey, I can’t complain about starting my work day with doing my favorite thing on earth – dining out!

Grade: A

Location: 9 9th Avenue @ Little West 12th

Website: http://www.pastisny.com

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March 23, 2011 · 2:31 am

Le Gigot

Cornelia Street with Le Gigot on left

I like to consider myself a seasoned expert when it comes to West Village restaurants, but tonight I was totally surprised by the fabulous French meal I had at a quaint bistro off of Bleecker called Le Gigot. I’ve definitely glanced at this place a few times, but having not read about it in my daily food news, I wrote it off as unworthy. My experience tonight just goes to show how many more restaurants there to be discovered via word of mouth in this city.

inside dining area

After veering off a side street to find this place, and opening the door to a tiny, romantically lit space, I couldn’t help but feel like I had been transported to Paris. The menu also covers the full gamut of French-American classics, and the cozy environment was exactly what I had hoped for on such a chilly winter’s night.

After reading several rave reviews about their crab cakes, I ordered the special asparagus soup to start, and the crab cakes for my main course. The asparagus soup, delicately thickened with potatoes as opposed to cream, was light, nutritious, and soul warming. Perfectly seasoned and pureed, it might have replaced that of Le Pain Quotidien as my favorite broccoli soup.

 

asparagus soup

The crab cake that followed was just as I had expected after reading the reviews: solely made of jumbo lump meat, sans bread crumbs or filler to muddle the taste of fresh crab. Though it wasn’t the most beautifully plated, it was seared to perfection and the most delicate, meaty crab cake I’ve tasted.

 

beautiful crab cake

I was also fortunate enough to taste the crab risotto, which was equally generous in the proportion of meat. Prepared with leaks and cream and heavily seasoned, this bold, flavorful risotto was not made for those looking for something mild.

crab risotto

We ended the meal with a few tastes of vanilla ice cream and hot fudge sauce – a fairly simple order, but astounding in quality. With the chocolate tasting just like the rich dark chocolate on the profiteroles at Balthazar, it took a lot of strength to resist ordering another scoop.

I’m thrilled that my friend gave me a reason to try a new restaurant in the West Village. With the success coming out of Le Gigot, I’m eager to try the other spots lining Cornelia like Po, Home, and Pearl Oyster Bar. If only there were 10 meals in a day!

Grade: A

Location: 18 Cornelia Street between West Fourth and Bleecker

Website: www.legigotrestaurant.com/

*First two photos from NYMag.com

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